“Dear Sir, A few months ago I placed my first order with you and built my very first guitar. Ovangkol back and sides with sitka top. I have been a craftsman for a number of years, rebuilding antique pianos, including making new soundboards and bridges, and decided to try my hand at guitars after buying a Taylor 814ce. The results of my first attempt were surprising, to me and to others. Since I'm a bit "old-school" I built it entirey by hand, no table saw, router, joiner etc. (I did use a driss press!). I have already received requests for custom made guitars, and from a store interested in selling them. It really helped to find quality supplies, all in one place, so I could start this experiment - which may just turn out to be my next and final career. Many Thanks. ps. I have just placed a second order so I can start making a few more......”
This tool is great for marking and cutting the rosette trough, the soundhole, and the soundhole reinforcement material. It is well suited as a marking/cutting tool whenever a radius is called for. The SPCC is milled from aluminum and the radius is adjustable from 1 3/16" to 4" radii, with a fine thread mechanism. A ¼" drill rod is used as the registration pin. The blade is high carbon steel made by Ron Hock and is held in place with an Allen head cap screw. The blade block is locked in place by an Allen bolt. Wrenches for each are included.
Beginning with a compass, mark your rosette or soundhole lines. Set the depth of the knife. Mount the cutter on the 1/4" pin that protrudes from your backing board and soundhole centerpoint and begin cutting. Your soundboard should be thickness sanded before attempting to cut out the soundhole as the blade cutting depth is limited.
NOTE: Make sure that the flat side of the blade faces the ledge that is to be 90 degrees. On the initial pass, rotate the cutter slowly as you move into the grain to avoid tearout. Be sure to keep your blade sharp.
Luthier and instructor Robert O'Brien shows how to use the Rosette Circle Cutter in 3 parts: