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Fingerboard Radiusing


Gilbert radiusing fingerboards.

“I just received my order of Rosewood
fingerboards and they are perfect.
The radius and slots are dead on
and the wood is beautiful.
Thank You, RLB.”

The radiused fingerboard is ¼" thick at the thickest part in the center of the board. Your fingerboard can be radiused and then slotted to any scale.

In order to more accurately radius fingerboards, we use a shaper/molder type tool with specially ground blades.

A few notes
  1. When slotting radiused fingerboards, we work off of the center line of the board to slot it. In other words, your fret slots are perpendicular to the centerline of the board. We do not trim the boards at all, leaving you the ability to trim the board to the size you require.

  2. When slotting unradiused fingerboards, we work off the edge of the fingerboard (which has been jointed) with the exception of the tapered Indian Rosewood fingerboards where we slot perpendicular to the centerline. All Indian Rosewood fingerboards are tapered.
Radiused boards are not finished sanded and will require a small amount of fine finish sanding. Our radius blocks (SRP1620 or SRP1012) work well for this task.

PLEASE NOTE that we do not radius:

  1. Mandolin/ukulele fingerboards
  2. Bass fingerboards wider than 3.25"
  3. Birdseye Maple fingerboards
    Birdseye Maple fingerboards do not radius well using
    our shaper/molder as they tear badly regardless
    of the sharpness of the blades.

 *Allow 2 or 3 days for this service.