LMI Pore Filler dries hard within a few minutes, so this water-based paste must be applied to the wood surface in an entirely different manner than the oil-based filler is applied.  The wet, creamy, water-based filler paste is simply squeegeed across the wood surface – and into the pores – with a flexible plastic card or palette knife.  With this fast drying pore filler an instrument can be pore filled, thoroughly, and sealed (vinyl sealer) and ready for lacquer finish coats within one day.

• Thin the LMI Pore Filler FMBF8 about 20% (4 parts of paste to 1 part water).  This will make the paste wet, creamy and easy to work with.  Any time that the paste dries out it can be made more creamy or liquid by adding small amounts of water and mixing it into the paste.  Always work with wet, fresh filler paste when filling the pores.
• Work in small areas – maybe 3” X 3” or 4” X 4” – and closely observe the progress of the pore filling as you thoroughly work that small area.
• Fill the pores with filler paste.  With the flexible plastic squeegee or artist’s palette knife spread a small amount of wet filler paste over the wood surface.
• Immediately scrape this wet filler off of the surface with the plastic squeegee or palette knife.  This will leave wet filler in the pores and small depressions.  Work the wet paste filler over the surface and into the pores and scrape it off several times in the next minute or so.  Scrape as much filler off of the surface as possible and stop scraping before the filler begins to dry (within minutes).
• As you finish this pore filling process in one area just continue by spreading and working fresh filler paste over new areas.  You should be able to pore fill the entire back in this manner in 10 to 15 minutes – the same time for the sides.
• Leave the filler to dry in the pores for a minimum of one (1) hour before proceeding.  With more drying time the filler is marginally harder.  It is hard enough to sand after one hour but the sanding may go better with two or three hours wait.
• Remove any filler residue from the wood surface by sanding the entire surface lightly with 220 grit no-load paper.  Some or all of the sealer may also be sanded off at this point.  That’s OK, just don’t sand down through the filled pores.
• Seal the wood and filled pores again with the thinned Vinyl Sealer – FLSW32.  Spray one wet coat over the newly filled surfaces.  Let this coat dry at least an hour before proceeding.
• REPEAT the entire pore filling process just completed.   This second pore filling will fill any tiny pores or depressions missed the first time.  You may want to thin the paste even a little more for this second filling.  Work
• the wet paste over the surface quickly, efficiently, leaving wet filler paste only in open pores and leaving very little paste residue on the wood surface.  This can best be achieved by scraping the plastic squeegee or palette knife all directions across the surface.  You can get very effective at this filling process with a little practice. When this second coat of paste filler has dried ( about 1 hour) sand the surface smooth again with 220 grit paper.  When the sandpaper clogs replace it with fresh paper.  The surface now should be very smooth, pore-free, and scratch free.
• Seal the filled hardwood surfaces with two wet coats of thinned vinyl sealer.  Let the first wet coat dry about an hour before the second coat is applied.  Let this second coat dry at least on hour before proceeding.
• Examine all wood surfaces very carefully. If you find any scratches under the sealed finish sand them out now with 220 grit paper.  Shoot sealer back over any sanded surface.