“Dear Sir,
A few months ago I placed my first order with you and built my very first guitar. Ovangkol back and sides with sitka top.
I have been a craftsman for a number of years, rebuilding antique pianos, including making new soundboards and bridges, and decided to try my hand at guitars after buying a Taylor 814ce.
The results of my first attempt were surprising, to me and to others. Since I'm a bit "old-school" I built it entirey by hand, no table saw, router, joiner etc. (I did use a driss press!). I have already received requests for custom made guitars, and from a store interested in selling them.
It really helped to find quality supplies, all in one place, so I could start this experiment - which may just turn out to be my next and final career.
Many Thanks.
ps. I have just placed a second order so I can start making a few more......”

- Jon Ballard

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Truss Rod Installation

Here are a few guidelines for installing truss rods for those who are new to guitar building.

  • Select the truss rod by carefully examining your plan. Each type or size of guitar is a little different, so it is impossible for LMI to determine which rod you should select based on the scale length of the instrument or the length of either the fingerboard or the neck. Custom length truss rods are available at no additional cost (however the turnaround time can be lengthy).
  • All our truss rods, with the exception of the compression rods, are installed with the non-moving rod (the square stock on the two-way and double action rods) bearing against the fingerboard. The rod that moves when you adjust the truss rod nut is placed at the bottom of the channel.
  • You can install the rod with the adjustment end at either the headstock or the soundhole.
  • Install the rod so that the adjustment end is seated solidly. Only the adjustment nut should protrude.
  • The channel you route for the truss rod should seat the rod as snuggly as possible. Especially at the ends. Some use a rounded bit for a round-bottomed channel, but this is not necessary.
  • If you are adjusting through the soundhole, the other end (non-adjustment) should be seated an inch or so away from the nut (towards the bridge).
  • Most luthiers do not glue in the truss rod, though some choose to epoxy the metal case that comes with the TRMR Martin ™ style rod to the walls of the channel .
  • It is a good idea to add some silicon caulking to the channel to help prevent against rattling.
  • Cover the channel with some thin tape so that when you glue you fingerboard down no glue gets on to the truss rod. Some choose to add a wood shim over the square stock instead of using tape.


Important Note:
With the exception of the TRMR made in Japan, all of the truss rods we carry are made, inspected and tested in the USA. Still, we urge you to carefully inspect each rod you receive to make sure it meets your specifications. Once installed, a truss rod can be extremely difficult to replace or repair. Put each rod in a vice and turn the nut beyond its normal range of adjustment (turn it both ways if it is a two-way rod). As with all of our products, LMI is not responsible for any effect of a defective truss rod, or any related costs, beyond the price of the truss rod itself. In keeping with our return policy, we are happy to replace or refund the cost of any rod that you are not happy with. Please call for a return authorization number within 2 weeks of receiving your order.