Fitting the sides into the mold.
Place the first side into the mold and use your new spreader to clamp it at the waist. Continue clamping until you're certain that the side fits tightly in the mold. Once you are satisfied that the fit is perfect then use a square or triangle to mark the ends of the side.
Using a square, I extended the line across the whole side. Then I clamped the side to my workbench with a piece of scrap MDF. The tall blade of this saw makes it easy to follow my guide and make a perfect perpendicular cut.
After trimming the sides refit them into the mold.  They will be a tight fit but once in place should fit the mold very closely, even without all the spreaders installed. Make certain that you are working on a flat surface and that the sides are flush with the table top. Here is a trial fit of the neck and tail blocks. See how closely the sides conform to the mold?
Fitting the neck and tail blocks
Some guitars are completely flat at the neck and tail and you can simply glue the blocks in without any further work.  No such luck here. The blocks need to be contoured to fit the curve of the mold. Before matching the curve I took the opportunity to thin the tail block and bevel the edges. Then I fitted the block to the mold.
The neck block gets the same bevel treatment. A quick check to make certain that it fits properly.
Before final clamping you want to be certain the the neck block is PERFECTLY straight! Otherwise setting the neck angle is going to be harder than it should be. Once you're satisfied you can do your final clamping. I use spreaders AND clamps.
Now is the time to clean up any glue squeeze out.  This is my favorite tool, a shovel shaped pick I got from my dentist.
Installing the end graft.
The kit comes with  Ivoroid trim. This piece is enough for the heel of the neck and the end graft.  Taking measurements from my D28.
The sides are removed from the mold and clamped in a vise. Actually only the end block is clamped, you'd crush the sides if you tried to clamp them!

Remember the old saying about measuring twice and cutting once?  

Well here is one reason.  

I drew the taper backwards the first time! 

The tall blade on this saw makes it easy to keep the saw straight up and down. Two fingers against the blade are enough to keep the cut right on the mark.  Alternatively, a small router or Dremel Tool could be used for this job.  I just haven't gotten around to building a fixture yet.
A 6 mm chisel is perfect for removing the material between the cuts. Going . . .
Going . . . Gone!
The ivoroid has stripes and I want them to run straight so I have to cut both sides of the taper.  A little touch up on a piece of sandpaper to remove any ragged edges, and . . .
The graft slides snuggly into it's groove.  Notice that I've also included two pieces of black/white purfling. Glued in place.
A scraper makes short work of leveling things. All done!
Trimming the Sides
Most guitar bodies are thinner at the neck than they are at the heel. Before you glue the kerfed lining you need to get the body taper right. The sides that come with this kit are pretty close to the right size at the heel but are too tall at the neck. A little work with a plane reduces the neck block. Since the back and top are both domed I use a dished form with sandpaper glued on it to sand the sides. The back has a 15' radius and the top has a 30' radius.
Rub chalk onto the blocks and rim and then sand like a mad-man until all the chalk is gone. Rotating the mold back and forth on the hollow form with sandpaper will cut the sides so they match the dome of the top or bottom perfectly.
Sand until you achieve the desired dimension. A couple of sheets of paper under one block or the other will allow you to sand without thinning that end. If you look closely you can see daylight between the rim and the sandpaper.  I've still got a ways to go.
You can see the chalk left where the side doesn't touch the sandpaper. A little more sanding and the job will be done.
Gluing the Kerfed Lining
Here's my set up for gluing linings.  The mold is clamped in my bench vise  and I've got a drawer full of clamps close at hand. I cut the lining into pieces that are 4 to 6 inches long.  They are easier to handle and because the sides are tapered a single long piece is almost impossible to glue properly.

In the top photo you can see that I've just started gluing the lining. Clothespins work quite well but I've got my eye on the fancy ones in LMI's catalog!
Gluing Side Braces
Inside the guitar most folks glue in some reinforcements to help keep the sides from splitting. Some guitars use a fabric web in place of "Popsicle sticks" I prefer wood reinforcements.  I've discovered that a pair of welding pliers are perfect for holding these little pieces of wood while I sand a taper on their edges.
enlarge this picture and you can see the taper. I'm making these out of mahogany because it matches the linings. That's probably not important, what is important is that the grain runs perpendicular to the grain of the side.
Here's what it looks like when I'm done.
Sand top and back to proper Taper
The sides are almost done, now we just need to return to the hollow forms with sandpaper to make certain that the lining is tapered perfectly. In the first picture you can see the chalk I use to mark the rim.  In this picture you can see that chalk remains in the waist, showing me thai I'm not done yet.
Top side is done (no chalk is left) and I've changed the dished form to the 15' radius for the back. With the top and back both done I switch to a flat sanding board and put a couple of 1/4" spacers under the butt of the guitar. The top is actually flat under the fingerboard extension.

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